The Garrard Guide to Gemstones

The Power of Colour

Our devotion to the natural beauty of coloured gemstones is as strong today as the moment Prince Albert secretly commissioned Garrard to create a sapphire cluster brooch as a wedding gift for his future wife, Queen Victoria. In honour of all the great love stories, past and present, that have been celebrated with an exceptional gem from Garrard, our Gemstone Guide is designed to help you in your search for the perfect engagement ring and answer any questions you may have about our colourful world.

Close up of a model wearing diamond rings set with coloured gemstones each as sapphire ruby emerald 1x1 1

Colour

What makes a gemstone truly special? At Garrard, it is colour, above all else. We hand-pick our stones according to their hue, tone and saturation, and how bright and lively they appear, rejecting any dull or lifeless gems  The language of colour is magical and expressive and includes words like Royal Blue to describe the most desirable sapphires, and Pigeon’s Blood to capture the seductive colour of the rarest rubies.

Close up of a Garrard Charisma diamond engagement ring

Cut

Cut describes more than just the shape of a gemstone. The beauty of an excellent cut is also determined by the arrangement of its facets and its proportions, and is reliant on the artistry of the gem cutter. At Garrard, we check and select each gemstone individually, and choose only those with optimal proportions, a symmetrical silhouette and perfectly placed facets.

Close up of a Garrard emerald cut emerald and diamond ring 2

Clarity

The clarity grade of a gemstone indicates the presence, or absence, of inclusions. Unlike diamonds, inclusions can be intrinsic to a gemstone’s beauty – the “jardins” that entwine, moss-like, through an emerald, for example, or the microscopic silky inclusions within a sapphire that guarantee it is of Sri Lankan origin. At Garrard, we are always searching for the cleanest gemstones to add to our collection.

Close up of a Garrard 1735 oval diamond and pink diamond engagement ring 1

Carat

A unit of mass equal to 200mg that is used to determine the weight of a diamond or gemstone, while the carat size of a diamond has a direct impact on its value, it is a little more complex with coloured stones. Different gems have different densities, so we regularly source centre stones for our collections based on their proportions instead. These include the gems in our 1735 collection, each of which measures 8 x 6mm.

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Certification

Uniquely among jewellers, we know the origin of every coloured gem in our Jewelled Vault and 1735 collections, each of which is presented with a certificate issued by a leading gemmological institute. Integral to the one-of-a-kind pieces in our Jewelled Vault collection and a welcome guarantee of quality with our signature 1735 collection, the origin is listed on the certificate, alongside the shape, cutting style, colour, carat size and indication of treatment.

a craftsman holding a Garrard Jewelled Vault Padparadscha and diamond ring in the workshop

Gemstone Origin

We acquire our gemstones only from those locations that are known to produce the finest quality gems, which is a source of great reassurance to our clients. Within the Jewelled Vault, you will find stones of peerless provenance – Burmese rubies, Colombian emeralds and Sri Lankan sapphires – while our 1735 collection features Zambian emeralds, Mozambican rubies and Sri Lankan sapphires exclusively.

a craftsman repairing a Garrard Jewelled Vault Sapphire and diamond ringin the workshop

Stone Treatments

Most people are unaware that almost all gemstones, including rubies and sapphires, are heat treated to enhance their colour, and it is also normal to oil emeralds, a naturally included stone – to improve their clarity and brighten their hue. Very occasionally our experts will acquire exceptional non-heated stones for the Jewelled Vault, which command a premium due to their uniquely precious rarity and beauty.

Close up side view of a Garrard bridal jewellery collection round diamond engagement ring

Our Diamonds

To enhance the colour of our gemstones, we pair them with diamond accent stones, which serve to intensify their vivid hues. We are very particular about our diamonds and select only D-G colour stones, with a minimum VS clarity. While other jewellers may compromise on quality, particularly with very small stones, we always source VS clarity and above, including the pavé diamonds in our collection pieces.

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